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| "La Seta" modern architecture in stark contrast to the old... |
One week has flown by. Wonderful flamenco filled days shared by Anna-Marie, Bev, Pam, Joanne and myself (Fiona). It is thrilling to see such an array of flamenco performers, from the more commercial Tablao setting (El Palacio Andaluz), to innovative theatre (Cia Flamenca La Choni), to the local intimate flamenco scene in Triana (T de Triana).
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| Purple Jacaranda trees by the Cathedral |
During the week, each day begins with Flamenco class, where I start the warm-up and technique followed by 1.5 hours of
"Alegrias" with the fabulous dancer Francesca "La Chica," who imparts her knowledge both enthusiastically and patiently. All classes are accompanied by live guitar, and I love popping into the middle of class every now and then to see how everything is coming along. It is transformative to not only study in the day, but also to be inspired by night; through the sights and sounds of Seville. This tour is meant as a complete absorption of flamenco in all its essential aspects.
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| Plaza Alameda |
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| In the basement of the Flamenco Museum |
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An Abundance of Plazas...
We started the tour on Sunday with a large walk. Beginning at Plaza Alameda, the oldest public park in Europe, with Roman columns depicting Hercules and Julius Cesar. We then walked through the most modern plaza "La Seta," recently completed in 2011, plaza Alfalfa where we stopped for a Cuban style lunch and then a surprise visit to the Flamenco Museum. Wandering past, I saw Joaquin, who generously offered for us to enter the museum and personally showed us the video, art displays and costumes of legendary dancers such as Antonio Gades. We also ventured down to the underground Roman caverns, where the dancers rehearse before performing at the Tablao upstairs.
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| On my balcony |
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| Parque Maria Luisa |
Our tour next stopped by my apartment for fruit and drinks and then with everyone refreshed (and unbelieveably energetic despite the heat) we continued on to Plaza de España, Parque Maria Luisa (an inner city oasis), Plaza Nueva and back to the Plaza del Museo, where everyone is staying, right by the museum of Fine Arts.
The Labyrinth of Santa Cruz...
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| The meeting spot! |
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| Casa de la Memoria with Raphael & Adela Campallo |
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| Joanne in class |
Later in the week we met up at our usual meeting spot (the fountain of the Cathedral) to do a walking tour through the old jewish quarters called "Santa Cruz." It was a relatively unguided tour, as the guide, easily lost herself in the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets (ironically this is the exact neighbourhood she actually lives in). However, losing yourself in Santa Cruz opens yourself up the mystery of small hidden plazas (plaza Santa Marta), beautiful buildings, narrow lanes with an abundance of flower pots and glimpses of the edge of the castle wall.
We had dinner in a plaza shaded by one of the many Santa Cruz churches. The flamenco show that night was at "Casa de la Memoria." An intimate setting in an arab style courtyard, there were flowers and vines climbing up the back wall and moorish lanterns lighting the front of the stage. One of my favourite dancers is Adela Campallo, who was dancing that night in the company of her family (her brother,
Bailaor Raphael Campallo). Her other brother guitarist Juan Campallo was supposed to play but we had found him earlier sitting on the steps with his guitar at another venue, so I guess he was too popular that night! Adela danced with all the sharpness, profound beauty and dramatic intent that is characteristic of her very personal style, she was also accompanied by the
Cante of Jeromo Segura (who also sings for Eva Yerbabuena).
Corpus Cristi Mayhem...
Mid-week it was a local holiday, dedicated to celebrating Corpus Cristi. The centre was draped in dark red flags and banners and at 10:30 pm Wednesday night, the Virgen statue/platform known as the
cofradia came out from her refuge at the city hall, making her way up a long ramp to a huge alter that was set up just for this day. It was special to witness how much dedicated pageantry and solemn respect is given to the pasos, or religions processions. The hush when the platform bearers
costaleros dropped to their knees to allow the Virgen to clear the door, the movement of the platform, swaying as she pushed forward to the music of the marching orchestra and drums, the flickering candles on large solid silver candlesticks, and the gasps from the gathered crowd as she made her way slowly up the ramp...
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| Francesca "La Chica" teaching dance class |
Seeing a
Paso is a true Sevillan experience. Although the main week is that of Easter, processions also happen all throughout the year. The entire next day was full of the procession as the Virgen made her way through the city (I had trouble getting out of my apartment because there was a trombone on my doorstep). I think Seville must decided the day was a holiday partly to accommodate the quantity of musicians, flag bearers, procession workers etc. needed to celebrate!
Toreando en Triana...
After class the next day Joanne and Bev went to the Maestranza de Sevilla, the esteemed bullring of Sevilla, for their very first bullfight. As the bullfighters were relatively young and eager to prove themselves, there were many shows of bravado and I think one bullfighter went flying through the air when he decided to meet the raging bull coming out of the gate, on his knees. We all met up in Triana later that night. Triana is the very important neighbourhood for flamenco, with an extensive history and is also the birthplace of many flamenco form variants such as
"Tangos de Triana." The word Triana itself is sprinkled constantly in flamenco lyrics. We saw a local show, so the group met and chatted with many musicians and dancers from the local community and also enjoyed the
"fin de fiesta" or improvised jam session
Por bulerias that often takes place at these kind of shows. Dancing in a fin de fiesta can be a nerve-racking experience (you never know what they will chose to sing for you or how), but it can also be exhilerating, and ultimately a lot of fun. There is something special about being in a circle, clapping, shouting, responding and interacting with everyone else.
The Emperor's City and Francesca takes to the Stage...
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| Entering Italica |
Pam and Anna-Marie were very eager to see Italica, the most important Roman Ruin site in Spain, birthplace of the Emperor Trajan, with an amphitheatre that is the third largest in the world. The city is extensive and dates back to 206 B.C.!! The day was perfect, not too hot, and we found ourselves completely alone among the ruins for a good 1.5 hours, before we encountered a few other tourists. The tranquility and peace, walking among the olive trees, looking the marble statues, or sitting on the grass in the shade, was a nice respite from the busy, concentrated centre of Sevilla. Pam and I managed to hop over a gate to explore the subterranean tunnels, where the lions were kept for the gladiator fights, we didn't get too far (chased out by the heavy mud and gladiator ghosts) but it was an erie and special feeling to be below the amphitheatre foundation.
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| Franceesca dancing in "El Palacio Andaluz" |
In the evening, Francesca had invited us to the Tablao "Palacio Andaluz", which features everything a tourist could dream of (rapidly clicking castanets, the Carmen fantasy re-enacted). Francesca danced a very solid and powerful Soleá por Bulerias and the ladies loved seeing the transformation of their teacher from the studio by morning, to the captivating dancer in the beautiful theatre by night. We went to Plaza Pumarejo for a drink with the artists post-show and celebrated Anna-Marie's last night before she continued her European trip, the next day.
Sangria on the edge of a cliff...
Saturday is the day that we ventured out of Sevilla...into the mountainous region of Málaga. Set high on a gorge, Ronda is a town that evokes nostalgia of times past, horse-drawn carriages with bells, bridges that span the gorge, Spain's oldest bullring and dangerously set whitewashed buildings built upon the rock's edge. We visited the bullfighting museum, and then wandered casually through the town. The musicians in the plazas also seemed touched by the magic of the views, playing soft harp tunes (Lorena McKennitt in Spanish) and classical guitar tremelo. The whole town was very atmospheric. For those of you coming in future years, it might be worth staying an extra day for walking or equestrian tours, or to visit some of the many bodegas in the region.
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| View from the bus window en route to Ronda |
Bev and Joanne dashed off to visit palaces and Pam and I went hiking half-way down into the gorge, taking in the views of the
Puente Nuevo "New Bridge" (not altogether new, it was built in 1793). Which is both fearsome (they threw republicans to their death off of it) and beautiful (it eads into a lush valley of boulders and waterfalls). On our way back into the centre, walking through the street, we looked into the open wood doors of a mansion/restaurant and saw a balcony - with the sky as a backdrop, replete with a a small table waiting just for us. So we sat there and drank in both the stunning views as well as large glasses of some of the best sangria I have ever had.
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| In the bullring of Ronda |
The day was not over, as that night we went to a performance in Sevilla at the Theatre Quintero. A humouristic take on flamenco, it involved many of the hilarious incidents that can happen on the stage, both real and imagined (such as an angry singer singing so fast that the dancer twirls into a fainting heap, covered completely by her shawl or musical flirtations between dancer and guitarist). It is hard to encapsulate that performance in a few phrases, but we were all laughing great belly laughs and I think we'll be giggling about the show for years to come (we now have a whole arsenal of inside jokes to fill class with :-)
The torrent of bells on a Sunday morning...
Sunday is the day off from the tour...so everyone is choosing to relax in their own way. I believe Pam is at the palace (Alcázar), Joanne is at the Cathedral (La Giralda), whose bells have been tolling non-stop today (waking me up at a considerate 8 am) and Bev is busy exploring Cádiz and will likely come back with renewed energy for dancing "Alegrías de Cádiz" Monday morning!
Many moments in this past week were completely unplanned. As a result, we have had many spontaneous adventures, keeping with the spirit of what everyone's interests are and with what the day brought. Some days are more relaxed, other days we are busy soaking in as much as our flamenco feet can hold. This is not the kind of tour with a heavy, obligated itinerary, rather with a rhythm that allows for the feeling of actually living in Seville. I am so glad to be able to share many of my favourite locales, restaurants, monuments and flamenco artists with such lovely friends this past week. The group is all together in one class, however the tour does allow for all levels as tailored classes can be organized to levels, needs and requests. So much is possible! The most important thing, is to be able to enjoy flamenco in the heart of its birthplace. We hope you can join us in 2013! Please check back for an update on week #2....
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| The Giralda at night... |
Seeing a Paso is a true Sevillan experience. Although the main week is that of Easter, processions also happen all throughout the year. The entire next day was full of the procession as the Virgen made her way through the city (I had trouble getting out of my apartment because there was a trombone on my doorstep). I think Seville must decided the day was a holiday partly to accommodate the quantity of musicians, flag bearers, procession workers etc. needed to celebrate! 
Flamenco After Hours - Something special happens late at night when flamencos and friends gather around. Late night flamenco tends to bring out extraordinary moments of communication through song, music and dance that transcends us all to another place. Flamenco After Hours is an glance into the after hours of flamenco where each song, music and dance has it's own story to share and staying up late has it own rewards.
